Free Crochet Pattern – Crochet Hook Roll Case

When you first start out crocheting, one good hook is enough to practice with. However, it doesn’t take long to accumulate a modest collection – after all, you will need different size hooks for different yarn weights and patterns, and you’ll want to try out different brands of hooks, just to see what kind you like best. As your love of crochet grows, you’ll probably want to take your crochet with you when you travel. To keep your hooks safe and organized, crochet yourself up this crochet hook roll case. You’ll know exactly where they are when you’re ready to begin your next project, at home or on the go.

 

 

The hook case was designed specifically with my Clover Soft Touch hooks in mind, but the pockets should be able to fit a variety of hook types. If your hooks are longer than 6″, go ahead and make your piece “A” as long as you need it by repeating the rows of single crochet. Pick your favorite colors to customize it just for you. I used two balls of cotton yarn, and a very small amount of accent color for the edging and pockets. Cotton is great because it’s sturdy and easily washable, but feel free to use acrylic if that’s all you have on hand (I’d probably save the fancy yarn for a pretty wearable project).

 

Add this project to your Ravelry queue here: Free Crochet Pattern – Crochet Hook Roll Case

Crochet Hook Roll Case – Free Crochet Pattern

 

 

 

 

H hook
2 balls of worsted weight cotton yarn

Notes: Can be made using measurements instead of using exact stitch count from pattern. Just make sure piece “A”, “B” and “C” are all the same stitch count across.
Piece “B” is placed on top of “A” with corners matching. Surface slip stitch up through both thicknesses (A and B), spacing every 1-1/8″ to 1-1/4″ (every 4 stitches for H hook) to make pockets. If surface slip stitch scares you, feel free to use backstitch.
Single crochet edging is worked around entire piece, seaming B to A. Single crochet through top corners and top only of piece C, seaming to A.

Piece “A” = 10″ wide by 6″ high

Piece “B” = 10″ wide by 4″ high

Piece “C” = 10″ wide by 1-1/2″ high

Piece A:
1. Ch 37
Sc in back bump of 2nd ch from hk and each ch across

2. Ch 1
Turn
Sc in same st and each st across

3-27. Rep row 2 (25) times or until piece measures 6″ high.
Fasten off.

 

Piece B:
1. Ch 37
Sc in back bump of 2nd ch from hk and each ch across

 

2. Ch 1
Turn
Sc in same st and each st across

3-18. Rep row 3 (16) times or until piece measures 4″ high
Fasten off.

Lay piece B over piece A, matching up bottom corners. Pin together with st markers.

Pockets:
Starting with space after 5th sc from the left, working through both thicknesses surface sl st in between every 4th sc all the way up to the top of piece A. Alternatively, you may use backstitch.

Piece C (foldover flap):
1. Ch 37
Sc in back bump of 2nd ch from hk and each ch across

2. Ch 1
Turn
Sc in same st and each st across

3-6. Rep row 2 (4) times or until piece measures 1-1/2″ high
Fasten off.

 

Edging/Seaming:
Working through both thicknesses, join yarn to bottom left corner w/ sl st (hook case will be upside down to you)
Ch 1
(Continue working through both thicknesses)
3 sc in same/corner st
Sc in each st across
3 sc in corner
Rotate work
Sc evenly along edge until reaching the middle
(We are making the long part of the strap now)
Ch 90
Sk equivalent of 1 st
Continue sc evenly along edge
Match piece “C” to “A”, top corners to top corners
Working through both thicknesses
3 sc in corner
Rotate work
Sc in each st across top
3 sc in corner
Rotate work

 

(Only work st through piece “A” now)
Sc evenly along edge
When you get to piece “B”, work through both thicknesses
Join to first sc w/ sl st

(Place st marker in first st)
Sl st in each st until reaching ch-90 sp
Ch 5
Sl st in next st and each st around until reaching first sl st
Sl st into next st
Fasten Off
Weave in ends